Tuesday 7 September 2010

Ramadan Kareem!


Ramadan – Wow with only 1 or maybe 2 days to go – depending on the sunset and the appearance of the moon, Ramadan will finally be over. It has seemed like a very long month and I am not even fasting. But forced to participate in a country which strictly follows Islamic rule. So this means it is actually against the law to eat or drink (including water – and yes it is still 45degrees +) between sunrise and sunset. Also, it is illegal for restaurants, cafes, to sell food. Of course, this makes everyone tired and so generally not much happens at all during the day including the favourite past time here – shopping with nearly everything closed until about 7:30pm at night. There are a few exceptions if you are a young child (there is no strict law but some start as young as 8 and most by 12) pregnant, sick or travelling you are temporarily excused. (You are supposed to make up the missed days later!!) So during our holiday to Oman we had a day of reprieve in transit at the airports where we were able to purchase coffee and fast food. E who is particularly sensitive to her adopted culture approved this as being very fair. She always asks before she eats now. It is called the Holy Month as it is a time to sacrifice, give, pray, reflect and draw closer to God and generally appear more pious. There are other restrictions like loud music in cars, shops etc so as not to distract people from their attempts at holiness. We are encouraged to dress more conservatively and cover up – how the local women could be more conservative?? This is partly because sex is also banned during the daylight hours. Again?? The one shop in the entire country which sells liquor is also closed for the entire month. (We stocked up but Andrew is rationing his last few remaining bottles.) This is supposed to be month of celebration but for me these elements don't add up to me feeling very Ramadan Kareemy! It doesn’t appear that the locals eat any less food though, they just eat all night instead and seemingly sleep or rest a lot during the day. Apparently it is very common to pile on several kilos during this time. It also makes for much more aggressive and impatient drivers. (I don’t blame them - I lose the will to live without food and coffee). It is a time of celebration as people gather with family and friends in special feasts to break the fast and pray together. We have been to several Iftar dinners which traditionally begin with water, dates and nuts to provide immediate energy and prepare stomachs for the task ahead. There is also a late night dinner and the early morning meal, the Sohur – where breakfast is eaten at about 3:30-4:00am before the sun rises. Andrew was invited to a special Iftar feast today with a Qatari colleague. He was generously told to invite his family but not his wife or daughters. When he turned up they asked "where are your sons?". I was a little offended until I found out that Baby Camel was the main part of the feast.

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